An Autumn Weekend in Victoria, B.C.
I recently spent a wonderful weekend in the beautiful city of Victoria, British Columbia. This was my first international trip in a while, so I was excited to christen my new passport! My mom and grandma were in town and this quick voyage up to Canada made for a great time for all of us.
I booked our trip through the FRS Clipper, which couldn’t have been easier. They offer a variety of packages from Seattle to Victoria and the San Juan Islands for any length and itinerary. I chose the Seattle to Victoria Overnight Package and bundled our hotel and an excursion with it. Booking was super smooth and they took care of all the details!
Itinerary
Sunday Morning- Departure
My mom and grandma arrived in Seattle on Saturday, so we departed on the Clipper early Sunday morning. The ferry departs at 7:30am, so we arrived around 6:45 to board. We had no baggage to check (just carry-ons), but that is an option available to you if needed. We chose to sit in the Economy Panorama class, which are window seats on the lower level. You are free to move about the boat during the voyage and there is an open-air deck on the upper level if you want to get some fresh air and unobstructed views.
We enjoyed coffee and delicious cinnamon rolls for breakfast as the boat set off and the sun rose over Seattle. The trip takes 3 hours to reach Victoria, but there are plenty of refreshments available for purchase and beautiful scenery to enjoy along the way. Plus, you may get lucky like we did and see some orcas or whales! About an hour into our voyage, the captain announced over the loudspeaker that there was a pod of about 25 orcas with calves and cut the engines down until they passed. We were able to see a few of them breach for air and I was excited to be able to finally check that off of my Washington bucket list.
It was fun to be able to point out landmarks and places as we passed them to my mom and grandma, especially since we’ve been to a couple of them together, like Whidbey Island, Port Townsend, Point Wilson Lighthouse, and the San Juan Islands.
Arrival in Victoria
We docked in Victoria’s scenic harbor at around 11am and stepped off the boat to immediately be treated to the water taxi ballet! These adorable little boats perform a choreographed routine to music every weekend and holiday in the harbor for spectators on shore.
We had a relatively quick trip through customs and dropped our bags off to be taken to our hotel for us while we boarded our bus to Butchart Gardens. Along the ride, the bus driver pointed out places of interest on the way and told us some facts and history about Victoria and the Gardens.
Normally, the bus would be waiting right outside the ferry terminal, but the day we arrived there was a marathon going on that had shut down the street in front, so we had to walk 4 blocks to the pick-up point instead.
Butchart Gardens
When we arrived at the Gardens, we visited the cafe to grab some lunch before exploring. They offer all the usual coffee shop fare as well as a lunch menu with pastries, soups, salads, and sandwiches. I got a cheddar biscuit and tomato soup.
Once we had eaten, we set out to explore the gardens. They make an immediate impression, with gorgeous hanging baskets and landscaping. The Sunken Garden was a highlight, with beds of vibrant flowers and winding paths set among the remains of a former limestone quarry. We also enjoyed the fountain and Japanese Garden, but the dahlia garden was probably our favorite part. Dahlias of every shape, color, and type were at their peak pouring over the path. There were so many eye-catching varieties that it was impossible to choose a favorite.
We spent about 3 hours in the Gardens, though you could probably do it in less. We took the public city bus back to downtown, which ran every hour and dropped us off right next to the Empress. From there, it was just a quick 3 blocks to our hotel.
Dinner
I chose Hotel Grand Pacific for our stay through Clipper Vacations, which made getting our luggage and checking in a breeze. We had a beautiful suite-style room that overlooked the harbor. This was one of the nicest hotels I’ve had the pleasure of staying in and everything was so clean, comfortable, and beautifully-designed.
We decided to stay put for dinner and to eat at the hotel’s restaurant after our long day. I was initially unenthusiastic, wanting to go out somewhere downtown, but dinner ended up being perfect. We were seated out on their patio overlooking the harbor with a fire pit and blankets to keep us warm, and enjoyed delicious seasonal cocktails (a pumpkin spice aperol spritz). We ordered calamari and fried Brussels sprouts with chorizo vinaigrette as a starter and I had a New York strip steak with a red wine jus and oven-roasted garlic. Everything was delicious and our server was so friendly and attentive. We went with her recommendation for dessert and shared their (Canadian) Thanksgiving special, an adorable glazed pumpkin cheesecake!
After dinner, we strolled next door to see the Parliament building all lit up with its 330,000 bulbs. The entire city and harbor were beautiful at night, and I went on a little solo walk to enjoy some views and snap some photos before returning to our hotel room for the night.
Monday- Tea at the Empress
Monday morning we slept in a little after our early morning the previous day. I got coffee from the hotel’s Courtyard Cafe and relaxed on our balcony until it was time to go to tea.
We had reservations for tea at 11am and were seated at a lovely table by the window in the gorgeous lobby. A live pianist played on a baby grand while our waiter came by and set up our teapots. We selected 3 teas to try; a black breakfast blend, Flora’s Berry Garden, and Market Fresh. I learned quite a bit about properly drinking tea (hint: it does not consist of microwaving a mug of water and dunking your teabag in until it gets cold). Our waiter set a little steeping timer and came back just as the sand ran out and poured us each a cup.
We drank the breakfast blend first as we enjoyed our warm scones with clotted cream and strawberry preserves. We followed those with a variety of finger sandwiches and Flora’s Berry Garden, which was sweet and light. Saving the best for last, we finished with the sweet treats–tiny chocolate truffles, macarons, and little cheesecakes along with the Market Fresh tea.
The tea was a great experience; relaxing, delicious, and fun. I had never had a proper tea before, in fact, I’ve never cared much for tea at all. But getting to try several different kinds along with the beautiful food has made me much more interested in it and I enjoyed all of the teas I drank. And we drank a lot! It felt luxurious and old-fashioned in the best way, sipping tea out of fine china in the beautiful historic lobby.
Carriage Ride
After tea, we walked back to the Legislature building where TallyHo Carriage Company operates and booked a half-hour ride. The carriage, pulled by a Clydesdale named Spot, took us through historic James Bay neighborhoods past beautiful houses and through Beacon Hill Park. This was a relaxing and fun way to see some more of the city and learn some history while saving your legs from walking.
Chinatown
After our carriage ride ended, we hailed a taxi and took a ride down up to Chinatown. This Chinatown isn’t the largest, but it is Canada’s oldest and has a rich history. Most famous is Fan Tan Alley, known as the “narrowest street in Canada.” This alleyway feels like something out of Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley, with an eclectic assortment of shops lining the skinny walkway.
We visited a few different shops and picked up some souvenirs.
Return Home
After our carriage ride, our time in Victoria was coming to an end. We returned to our hotel to collect our bags and then enjoyed a last coffee and pastry in the Courtyard Cafe before walking across the block to the Clipper ferry terminal. There, checking in was a breeze and we found our seats on the boat and got underway.
The ride back treated us to a pretty sunset over Puget Sound, and before we knew it, we were back in Seattle. We had a quick run through customs, and that was the end of our trip!
Reasons to Visit Victoria
If you’re wondering why Victoria is worth the trip, here’s a few reasons to visit!
- It’s easy to get to. It only takes a few hours to get there by the Clipper, and it’s beautiful the whole way, with chances to spot whales and views of mountains, islands, lighthouses, and seaside towns.
- It’s walkable. You won’t really ever need a car to see most of Victoria. The downtown area is compact and there is plenty to do and see right along the waterfront. Uber and Lyft don’t operate in Victoria, but if by change you do need a ride, the public buses are good and there are taxis aplenty. If you book a common excursion through the Clipper, they have shuttles arranged so you don’t have to worry about getting to an attraction outside of the city, and they’ll take care of your luggage.
- The culture- Victoria has the reputation of being “more British than Britain.” Hotels serve high tea, authentic pubs line the street, fish ‘n chips are a staple on many menus, and double-decker buses abound. Even though Canada can feel very culturally similar to the US, Victoria has its own distinct flair.
- It’s beautiful! Victoria is one of the prettiest cities I’ve ever been to. It’s surrounded by mountains and Puget Sound, and its mild climate allows something to always be in bloom. There’s no shortage of sunshine in the summer months, and the historic architecture along the waterfront adds to the city’s charm.
Have you ever visited Victoria? What was your favorite thing to do? Let me know below!
